Craftsmanship

The detail behind every piece.

A closer look at the anatomy, stones, metals, finishes, mechanisms and inspection points that define fine jewellery — and how we work with each of them.

Anatomy of a fine ring

Every part has a purpose.

Hover a part — on the drawing or in the list — to see where it sits and what it does.

  1. 01
    TableThe large flat facet on top of the stone; the main window into it.
  2. 02
    CrownThe upper facets between table and girdle that break light into colour.
  3. 03
    GirdleThe outer edge of the stone, where prongs or a bezel hold it.
  4. 04
    PavilionThe lower facets that reflect light back up through the table.
  5. 05
    CuletThe point or tiny facet at the base of the pavilion.
  6. 06
    ProngsMetal claws that grip the girdle and secure the stone.
  7. 07
    HeadThe assembly of prongs and basket that holds the centre stone.
  8. 08
    BasketThe rails joining the prongs beneath the stone.
  9. 09
    GalleryThe openwork beneath the head, seen from the side.
  10. 10
    ShoulderWhere the shank rises to meet the head — often set with small stones.
  11. 11
    ShankThe band that encircles the finger.
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Stone cut library

Twelve cuts, each with its own light.

We set brilliant, step and mixed cuts. Hover a cut to watch its facets catch the light.

Brilliant

Round brilliant

The classic cut, engineered for maximum brilliance.

Brilliant

Princess

A square outline with brilliant-style faceting.

Brilliant

Oval

An elongated brilliant that flatters the hand.

Brilliant

Cushion

Softly squared corners with a warm glow.

Brilliant

Pear

A teardrop that combines round and marquise.

Brilliant

Marquise

Pointed ends and a long, slender outline.

Brilliant

Heart

A symbolic shape that demands precise symmetry.

Brilliant

Trillion

Triangular — often used as side stones.

Mixed

Radiant

Cut corners with brilliant-style facets.

Step cut

Emerald

Long parallel steps with a hall-of-mirrors effect.

Step cut

Asscher

A square step cut with deep, layered facets.

Step cut

Baguette

A slim rectangular step cut for accents and channels.

Metal purity & hallmarks

Fineness, stamped in metal.

Hallmarks express purity in parts per thousand. These are the standard finenesses used in fine jewellery.

999

24K fine gold

99.9% pure metal

Pure gold — soft, used for special pieces.

916

22K gold

91.6% pure metal

Rich colour, traditional in many markets.

750

18K gold

75.0% pure metal

The fine-jewellery standard in yellow, white and rose.

585

14K gold

58.5% pure metal

Durable and popular for everyday fine jewellery.

375

9K gold

37.5% pure metal

Accessible gold for lighter price points.

950

Platinum 950

95.0% pure metal

Dense, naturally white and very durable.

900

Platinum 900

90.0% pure metal

A harder platinum alloy suited to detailed work.

925

Sterling silver

92.5% pure metal

Bright white metal for accessible collections.

Hallmarking requirements vary by market and are confirmed for each destination.

Finish library

The final surface is a design decision.

Drag across the ring to compare a raw casting with the finished, polished piece.

Raw casting Finished & polished

High polish

A mirror-bright surface that reflects light cleanly.

Satin

A soft, low-lustre sheen.

Brushed

Fine directional lines for a contemporary look.

Sandblast

An even matte texture with a velvety feel.

Hammered

Hand-hammered facets that catch the light.

Florentine

Cross-hatched engraving with a classic, textile feel.

Ice

A frosted texture that glitters as it moves.

Diamond-cut

Faceted cuts that flash like gemstones.

Two-tone rhodium

Selective rhodium for contrasting white and yellow.

Clasps & findings

Mechanisms engineered to last.

The small components that keep jewellery secure and comfortable — chosen and tested for each design. Each one is shown step by step.

Clasp

Lobster clasp

  1. 01Press to open the spring gate
  2. 02Hook the jump ring through
  3. 03The gate snaps shut

A spring-loaded gate that snaps closed.

Clasp

Box clasp with safety

  1. 01Slide the tongue into the box
  2. 02It clicks into place
  3. 03The safety catch locks over

A tongue locks into a box, backed by a safety catch.

Clasp

Toggle clasp

  1. 01Turn the bar end-on
  2. 02Pass it through the ring
  3. 03It rests across the ring

A bar passes through a ring and rests across it.

Clasp

Bayonet clasp

  1. 01Push the plug into the sleeve
  2. 02Twist a quarter turn
  3. 03The pin locks in its slot

Push in and twist to lock.

Earring

Push back

  1. 01The post goes through the ear
  2. 02Slide the back onto the post
  3. 03It grips the post

A butterfly back slides onto the post. Ear lobe shown translucent

Earring

Screw back

  1. 01The post goes through the ear
  2. 02Thread the back onto the post
  3. 03Screwed tight for extra security

A threaded back screws on for extra security. Ear lobe shown translucent

Earring

Lever-back

  1. 01The hook goes through the ear
  2. 02Swing the lever up
  3. 03It clicks shut on the hook

A hinged lever closes onto the hook. Ear lobe shown translucent

Earring

Omega back

  1. 01The post goes through the ear
  2. 02Swing the clip under the lobe
  3. 03It snaps onto the post

A hinged omega clip presses against the ear. Ear lobe shown translucent

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Under the loupe

What we inspect on every piece.

Each piece is checked against the agreed specification, focusing on the points that matter most to quality and wear.

  1. Prong securityProngs are even, tight and smooth to the touch.
  2. Stone seatingStones sit level and secure in their seats.
  3. JoinsJoins are clean, strong and invisible.
  4. PolishSurfaces are free of marks, pits and drag lines.
  5. Edges & comfortEdges are smooth and the inner band is comfortable.
  6. Plating coveragePlating is even and complete where specified.
  7. StampingHallmarks and logos are crisp and correctly placed.
  8. DimensionsSize and key dimensions match the specification.

Inspection criteria and tolerances are agreed for each project.

Let’s discuss your next collection.

Tell us where your project stands. We respond to qualified enquiries with next steps for a meeting.